Precautions for Buying Turtles in Winter: 3 Keys to Avoiding Temperature Shock and Intestinal Risks

Winter is not a good season to buy turtles, and the reason boils down to “temperature difference.” If you “can’t resist the urge” to buy a turtle, there are still some precautions you need to be careful about to improve the survival rate.

Before Buying

Before purchasing a turtle, you need to confirm the following information with the seller:

• Confirm whether the seller’s turtles are currently in a heated state or a natural state;
• Evaluate the temperature difference between your city and the seller’s city.

In principle:

If the seller raises them in heated conditions, it is best to have a tested heat pack for the journey, and heating must be started immediately upon arrival. Subsequently, you can slowly lower the temperature for hibernation or continue heated rearing. It is worth noting that if the seller has been feeding them under heated conditions, it is advisable to fast them for 3-5 days to avoid intestinal bloating caused by low-temperature fermentation during transit.

If the seller raises them in natural temperature conditions, no heat pack is needed for the journey. After arrival, you can choose to raise them with heating or let them hibernate directly (provided the turtle is healthy).

During Buying

Due to the low temperatures, turtles in a natural state may not be as active as they are in summer. Their limbs may appear slightly stiff in movement. Therefore, buying turtles during this period really tests your “eye” for judgment.

However, “I won’t say much more”; turtle friends who are not confident can wait until the beginning of spring to make a purchase.

Post-Purchase Handling

Heated Rearing upon Arrival

You can apply heat directly. If the temperature difference is large, increase the temperature slowly, such as rising 2 degrees per 1 hour.

Hibernation upon Arrival

It is recommended to heat and observe for 3-5 days. After confirming that the turtle’s condition is normal in all aspects, slowly lower the temperature for hibernation.

Precautions

Heating upon Arrival

If the turtle’s body temperature is very low, do not raise the temperature rapidly. Especially in cases of excessive temperature difference, overly rapid heating may lead to cell damage. Ideally, warm them up slowly over the course of several hours.

Water Heating:

Since newly arrived turtles may be too weak to keep their heads above water or lift themselves up for long enough to breathe, you need to ensure the turtle is well-supported in the water to avoid drowning.

Air Heating:

First, place the turtle on the side of the incubator with a lower temperature gradient. After 30-60 minutes, you can move it closer to the heat zone.

Radiator Heating:

Since the general ambient temperature is about the same, there doesn’t seem to be anything special to note……

Hibernation upon Arrival

Turtles that show a good initial reaction, are not overly thin, have flexible limbs, carry good weight, and are “chubby” can be chosen for hibernation. However, confirm that no food has been ingested for 3-7 days prior to hibernation, or that enough time at a sufficient temperature has been allowed for digestion. If hibernation is induced by a drastic temperature drop, food rotting inside the digestive tract can cause very serious consequences.

Rehydration

For specific operations, see: [Disease Diagnosis] Turtle Fluid Replacement Methods and Operations. Since turtles are weaker and reflexes are slower after transport and experiencing temperature differences, fluid therapy should be performed in small amounts and frequently. The temperature of the fluid should be isothermal with the turtle’s environment.

Heating and Gut Flora Supplementation

Especially for heated semi-aquatic turtles (turtles transitioning between terrestrial and aquatic habits), appropriate flora supplementation can be done upon arrival in winter to prevent intestinal fermentation issues. You can use the feces of a healthy turtle of the same species (not too much, just a little bit) or use compound bacteria combined with prebiotics (a type of dietary fiber that is indigestible but promotes the growth of intestinal probiotics) such as inulin to supplement the flora.

Heating and Feeding

Once the temperature is stable, the rehydration effect is good, and the intestinal flora has been supplemented, you can start providing nutrition to the turtle in small, frequent amounts, starting with easily digestible items. You must not feed the turtle while it is in a dehydrated state!

Turtles need energy to digest food; if the temperature rises but energy is not replenished, they will begin to consume their own reserves. Also, the turtle’s stress level needs to be assessed, because stress itself consumes a large amount of energy.

Once the turtle can eat regularly on its own, digest food normally (assessed based on the appearance, frequency, consistency, and smell of feces), and has significantly gained weight, it can be raised normally.